超市的每个货架都在明目张胆地藏着种子油。抓起一辆购物车。

“橄榄油”蛋黄酱：法律上65%的油，其中橄榄油只占约5%。其余95%是豆油或菜籽油，静静地坐在配料表顶部，而橄榄油则在前包装上用大大的自豪字体占据了名字。一汤匙大约含有半克你付费买的那玩意儿。

罐装罗勒酱：葵花籽油排第一，橄榄油像忘了这是谁的配方一样跟在后面。

鳄梨油：当加州大学戴维斯分校测试货架上的产品时，至少82%被检测出变质或掺假，有些“特级初榨”瓶子几乎是纯豆油。八英镑，绿色标签，配图是一个从未露面的鳄梨。

“植物油”：100%种子油，0%植物。从未有任何植物靠近过它。营销部门只是喜欢这个词。

“采用橄榄油制作”：一滴就够资格用这个短语。种子油干了重活，橄榄油负责发新闻稿。

“和/或”，比如豆油和/或菜籽油和/或葵花籽油：他们每周换用最便宜的那种，所以你真的分不清自己在吞什么。神秘油。多么令人安心。

鹰嘴豆泥：鹰嘴豆，然后是一大坨没人要的菜籽油。

“橄榄油罐头鱼”：通常是混合油。这个罐头在真相上玩起了经济账。

薯片和玉米片：全用葵花籽油炸。

烤坚果：也是葵花籽油，因为坚果自身的优质脂肪显然太贵了。

沙拉酱：菜籽油，三种香草，外加一个卖力干活的高端标签。

“心脏健康”人造黄油：实验室里发明出来的工厂种子酱，被卖给你作为真正黄油的理性成人替代品。它的脸皮真厚。

一个习惯胜过这一切，只需3秒。按法律，列在第一的油就是含量最多的。如果读到豆油、葵花籽油、菜籽油或“植物油”，那么包装正面就是华丽的伪装。

真相一直藏在背面，毫不掩饰。

Every aisle in the supermarket is hiding seed oil in plain sight. Grab a trolley.

"Olive oil" mayonnaise: legally 65 percent oil, of which the olive is about 5 percent. The other 95 is soybean or rapeseed, sitting quietly at the top of the ingredients while the olive gets its name on the front in big proud letters. A tablespoon holds roughly half a gram of the stuff you paid for.

Jarred pesto: sunflower oil first, olive trailing in behind like it forgot whose recipe it was.

Avocado oil: when UC Davis tested the shelves, at least 82 percent came back rancid or cut, and some "extra virgin" bottles were near enough pure soybean. Eight quid, green sticker, picture of an avocado that never attended.

"Vegetable oil": 100 percent seed oil, 0 percent vegetable. No vegetable has ever been near it. The marketing department simply liked the word.

"Made with olive oil": a single drop earns the phrase. The seed oil does the lifting, the olive does the press release.

"And/or," as in soybean and/or rapeseed and/or sunflower: they swap in whichever is cheapest that week, so you genuinely cannot tell what you are swallowing. Mystery oil. How reassuring.

Hummus: chickpeas, then a generous slug of rapeseed nobody asked for.

Tinned fish "in olive oil": a blend, usually. The tin is being economical with the truth.

Crisps and tortilla chips: fried in sunflower, the lot of them.

Roasted nuts: also sunflower, because the nut's own perfectly good fat was apparently too expensive.

Salad dressing: rapeseed, three herbs, and a premium label doing heroic work.

The "heart healthy" spread: factory seed paste invented in a lab, sold to you as the sensible grown-up alternative to actual butter. The cheek of it.

One habit beats all of it and costs 3 seconds. By law the first oil listed is the one there is most of. If it reads soybean, sunflower, rapeseed or "vegetable," the front of the pack was fancy dress.

The truth was on the back the whole time, wearing no disguise at all.